The evolution of hotel restaurants

Chef Nayak has been hosting a series of such collaborations with luxury hotels in India. The concept is similar: to bring peninsular Indian cuisine from the west, east and southern coast. Much of this is also reflected in Jhol’s menu. “Many of these heirloom dishes haven’t found their way to hotel or restaurant menus. Some of them are my interpretation of the classics,” says Chef Nayak.

Just a while ago, Chef Nayak brought a six-course tasting menu, paired with Fratelli wines, to Taj Land’s End. Among the dishes his team cooked up: Jhal Mudi Pie Tee, Quail Egg Devil & Calicut Crab Toast, Cuttack Dahi Bara Aloo Dum (buttermilk soaked rice dumplings served with spicy potatoes), Berhampur Fried Chicken served in the restaurant’s signature hot sauce, Bhetki Patrani, Ghee Roast Eggplant, Inji Pull Pork Ribs, Ghee Roast Chicken, Coorgi Mutton Curry and Alleppey Meen Curry along with Tender Coconut Payasam, and Mango Sorbet and Sesame Crisp.

This wasn’t Chef Nayak’s first sojourn into luxury hotels. In 2019, he curated the menu at Alchemy at The Chancery Pavilion Hotel in Bengaluru. He was back in February 2024 to revamp the menu, adding a global flair to the food served. On the menu are all kinds of butter boards, dominated by Dabeli butter, Nolen Gur butter and Bloody Mary butter, slathered over Iyengar bakery buns, hot buns with a potato filling. Then there is pav bhaji filled into pillow crackers, made on high heat, so they pop up and make a vacuum-inside.

In April this year, Baraabaru, at Four Seasons Maldives the jewel of Maldivian dining and one of CNN Travel’s top ten ‘Maldivian Finest Tables’, was transformed into a haven of contemporary coastal Indian gastronomy under Chef Nayak’s guidance. The meals included farm-fresh Maldivian produce infused with Chef Nayak’s signature flair, all the while championing eco-friendly practices and reducing food waste. “In Maldives, I found that people are open to experimenting with Indian cuisine that goes beyond the north Indian curries they are used to,” says Chef Nayak. “Even Indians who travel to Maldives are more open to coastal Indian cuisine and other regional dishes.”

The Indian city that scores over global favourites

Is this the future of dining in luxury hotels, I asked him, chefs like him who either bring pop-ups to the realm of hotel restaurants or even set up celebrity chef-helmed restaurants, much like Chef Vineet Bhatia’s restaurants in The Oberoi Mumbai and The Oberoi New Delhi?

“I've noticed that more hotels are collaborating with chefs, likely due to the advantages it offers. The hotel's corporate structure makes it difficult for chefs working in hotels to function independently,” says Chef Nayak. “For example, if someone wants to source a specific rice from Bengal, like Govindbhog rice, which is essential in dishes such as Chingri Malai curry, an independent chef can easily procure it from the market. However, in hotels, this process can be more complex. You have to go through the purchasing department, and get approvals, and by the time everything is done, the desired ingredients might not even be available. So, often you end up using what's already there.”

Hotels are starting to realise they're losing guests who may be paying a premium to stay but might leave the premises for better dining options. “If hotels can offer enough variety and quality within, there's no reason for guests to venture out. This shift has fostered changes, such as partnerships with renowned chefs, which is a fantastic opportunity.”

From Udipi to New York to the world

Hotels need to inject fresh energy into their culinary teams. “In many established Indian hotel brands, chefs have been in their roles for 20 or 30 years. While these positions offer job security, after two decades, innovation often stalls,” says Chef Nayak. “The focus shifts to maintaining buffets and banquets, managing a large team, and little else. Hotels need to collaborate with culinary-focused leaders who can revitalise the dining experience. For instance, when a new management team takes over at a hotel, they bring in a new F&B director to revamp the culinary concept entirely.”

Interestingly, it is Indian hotel restaurants that are struggling to create an identity for themselves, a process in which they have failed barring a few, such as The Leela's Jamawar or ITC’s Bukhara. In global cities such as New York, Singapore, or Dubai, hotel restaurants are far more vibrant, often outsourcing or hosting pop-ups. “This trend of outsourcing might be a future direction for hotels, leading to more independent chefs setting up restaurants within hotels. It's a win-win; the chef benefits from the partnership, ensuring quality, while the hotel enjoys a unique offering,” reflects Chef Nayak. Already, restaurants like Le Cirque, Megu and Paper Moon have opened their Indian iterations in hotels such as The Leela New Delhi, Chanakyapuri, and The Taj Aguada Resort & Spa, Goa.

From Udipi to New York to the world

Chef Nayak was born and raised in Udipi, a bucolic coastal region in Karnataka. “Growing up in Udupi, I was always drawn to coastal flavours. Breakfasts included varieties of dosa and idlis, with neer dosa and idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves being my favourites. Lunches were simple vegetarian meals, and special occasions featured kori roti, ghee roast chicken, and fish fry. The vast region of peninsular India offers endless culinary exploration,” he says.

Chef Nayak shares his insights on how chefs like himself are inspiring a global reimagining of Indian cuisine and shaping the future of dining. His views will inspire young chefs, both independent and within hotels, to understand how the culinary world is swinging internationally:

How will fine dining evolve, particularly in the hotel space?

Fine dining today is not what it was five or even 10 years ago. People today don’t have the patience for long, multi-course meals that stretch over three hours. They want quicker, more relaxed experiences. Going out has become more casual and fun, yet still refined, but without the formalities. Dining shouldn’t be reserved for special occasions such as birthdays. It should be a comforting experience that you look forward to more frequently, something you can enjoy twice a month with your family.

What kind of conversations would you like to hear about Indian food, both in India and globally?

I’d like to see young chefs explore their culinary roots and culture more deeply. When I started, I was eager to learn French cuisine, spending years working in French pastry kitchens. That experience was invaluable, but I now realise how much more there is to understand and explore about my food heritage. I believe that if young chefs focus on their traditions, they can bring those dishes to the forefront in a way that resonates globally.

You’ve spent significant time mastering French culinary techniques. How have you incorporated those into your approach to Indian cuisine?

The French techniques I’ve learned have influenced my cooking. They help refine the presentation and approach to dishes, making them more appealing to a global audience without losing the essence of Indian flavours. For example, when serving Indian food to a Western audience, I might adapt the intensity of spices to suit their palate, like avoiding whole spices in certain dishes. It’s about finding a balance between authenticity and accessibility.

What inspired you to create the menu at Jhol, and how does it differ from traditional perceptions of Indian cuisine?

My inspiration for Jhol's menu stems from my deep love for the cuisine I grew up with in Udupi, as well as the food I have eaten that comes from the lesser-known regions of coastal India. The menu highlights the rich flavours of the Konkan and Malabar coasts on the west, along with the culinary traditions of Chettinad, Pondicherry, and the Bay of Bengal on India’s south and east coasts.

Internationally, from the investor to the clientele, everyone has a certain stereotype of Indian food in their mind: There has to be a tandoor, there have to be north Indian curries, and there has to be naan. Unlike the traditional expectations of Indian cuisine internationally, Jhol deliberately excludes these elements to showcase the diversity of regional Indian cuisines. When Jhol first opened in 2001, it was among the few to introduce such a concept in Bangkok.

How has Jhol been received in Bangkok, and what are some signature dishes that have become popular?

Jhol has been well-received in Bangkok, particularly for its innovative approach to Indian cuisine that resonates with locals and Indians. I took the time to understand the Thai palate, designing a menu that includes a diverse array of coastal Indian dishes crafted with the finest local Thai ingredients. I am fascinated by the similarities between Thai cuisine and southern Indian cuisine. When the opportunity arose to open a restaurant in Bangkok’s Sukhumvit area, it was the perfect chance to showcase regional Indian food from India’s coastal regions. Some of the signature dishes that have become staples include the Mumbai Maska Bun with Pav Bhaji Butter, Sol Kadi Ceviche, Mutton Roast, Mini Appams, stuffed chicken wings, and Cuttack-style Dahi Bara Aloo Dum.

Speaking of regional cuisine is there a particular dish or cuisine from India that you believe is still underrated and deserves more attention?

One of my favourite dishes growing up was kori roti from Mangalore. It’s a dish that even many outside of Mangalore aren’t familiar with, yet it’s incredible. I also think of simple yet unique dishes such as idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves, which we used to eat  every Sunday at home. These are the kinds of underrated dishes that I enjoy showcasing to the world.

What has your experience with Goan cuisine been like, especially when comparing Catholic and Saraswat Brahmin styles?

There’s still much to learn about Indian cuisine, even as a chef. I’m still discovering new aspects of my culinary heritage. Goan cuisine, whether Catholic or Saraswat Brahmin, has rich, distinct flavours. I try to incorporate these flavours into my dishes whenever possible. For instance, we’ve attempted to recreate Goan sausages in Bangkok, but it’s never quite the same—there’s something about the local ingredients, maybe the water, which makes a difference.