Northern Flavours, Rediscovered
The third outlet of Taj’s Loya opens in the group’s flagship hotel in Mumbai.
By Suman Tarafdar
Journey through the heart of the north
For north Indian cuisines, the most usual word associations are rich, spicy, cream-based, fat-laden curries swimming in generous dollops of oil. Unlike most other restaurants, Loya’s tagline—‘journey through the heart of the north’- implies a deeper dive into the cuisines of northern India. Read to mean several steps away from the heavy curries that have come to dominate restaurant menus.Any restaurant launch by the group is noteworthy, of course, but there are added layers to this one. This is the third Loya, becoming IHCL’s fastest expanding luxury restaurant brand. As Puneet Chhatwal, Managing Director and Chief Executive Officer, IHCL, put it during the initial launch, “IHCL, with its rich culinary history for over a century, has always been renowned for pioneering global and regional cuisines and concepts.”Bringing Loya to Mumbai was about more than introducing northern Indian cuisine—it was about offering an immersive experience that celebrates the region's culinary heritage, techniques, and storytelling, says Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, Brand Head, Loya. The name elicits times when communal feasts, which everyone shared in, were the order of the day. Think of the Pashtun/Pathan loya jirga, still extant in Afghanistan.
Sanjha Kebab, a speciality of Loya Mumbai.
Jwala Macchi, or white snapper cooked in the quintessential north Indian way.
Creating the right ambience
“Unlike Delhi, where northern Indian flavours are deeply ingrained in everyday dining, Mumbai boasts a cosmopolitan palate with a penchant for global and coastal flavours,” elaborates Wadhwa. “This diversity presented an opportunity to showcase a broader spectrum of north Indian cuisine, moving beyond the familiar and into the realm of rare, heirloom recipes. The opportunity lay in crafting a menu that stayed true to Loya’s essence while resonating with Mumbai’s evolved and adventurous dining audience. Achieving this meant educating guests about the depth of flavours, the philosophy behind the dishes, and traditional techniques such as Dhungar, Dum, Baghar, and Sigdi. Sourcing authentic ingredients, some unique to north India, was equally critical to maintaining the integrity of each preparation. Thus, to balance authenticity with approachability, creating a celebratory, theatrical experience that mirrors Mumbai’s vibrant spirit while preserving the timeless traditions of northern Indian cooking.”
A few years ago, Taj had dispatched a bunch of chefs, with instructions to disappear in the hinterlands of north India. They went to small towns, villages, tribal areas to research cuisine to know what is missing in cities, bringing back to the table discoveries and traditions and methodologies long forgotten. This has defined the underlying philosophy of the restaurant, amply reflected in the menu.
Creating the right ambience, Loya Mumbai's interiors reference its earlier outposts. The look of the frontier is replicated on a sandy beige. Look out for grand arches, exquisite niches, intricate motifs, stone jaalis and more, rendered perfectly with natural and aged textures. Beautiful brass lanterns set the mood for the meal, seemingly at some distant northwestern highway serai. Diyas at the table for dinner provide the extra touch of warmth.
The bar courtyard, sculpted with natural rocks and boulders and accentuated with a stunning waterfall, is designed to be reminiscent of the natural springs in the Himalayas. The distinctive furniture at Loya seeks inspiration from the traditional Indian ‘khatia’ and ‘peeda’ and has been crafted from logwood with copper embellishments. Vibrant drapes, vivid artworks, copper lanterns, intricate filigree ‘jaalis’, striking canopies and colourful awnings create a sense of nostalgia and are reminiscent of the erstwhile bustling bazaars of the north of India. On entering, the eye is immediately drawn to the open kitchen. Interested guests can look on at the various traditional cooking processes, behind glass screens of course. Prominently visible are chefs poring over processes such as dhungar, baghar, sigdi and dum.
Delicate flavourful dishes are divided into courses—‘Pella Swaad’ or appetisers, ‘Saajha Swaad’ or mains and ‘Mittha’, desserts. From the Himalayan foothills to Kashmir, from undivided Punjab and the upper reaches of the northern plains, these are recipes that bring alive home-style dishes, albeit with premium plating and ambience. Loya Chaat to Timbri Jhinga, Attari Murgh, Malerkotla Keema Chole, and Dum Nalli, the brand favourites are all in place. Ingredients are sourced from local regions, and yes, the availability of certain dishes depends on seasonality.
Loya's bar courtyard, sculpted with natural rocks and boulders.
Loya ki Chaat is actually three distinct chaats.
Of course, there are some local influences too. “Loya Mumbai stays true to its north Indian culinary roots while embracing the city’s dynamic spirit through thoughtful local and seasonal adaptations,” says Wadhwa. “The menu incorporates coastal influences, featuring freshly sourced seafood prepared using traditional techniques, and evolves with Mumbai’s tropical climate, offering lighter, refreshing options during humid months. Regional twists include using local greens in the chaat sampler, kokum in the kadhi instead of yoghurt, and an increased focus on seafood, reflecting the city’s abundant coastal produce.”
Additionally, the bar programme expands on the Paanch cocktail philosophy, highlighting Indian spirits, fermentations, and infusions that resonate with Mumbai’s experimental cocktail culture. Loya at The Taj Mahal Palace Mumbai offers more than just a meal—it’s a multisensory experience that combines the richness of north Indian cuisine with a theatrical dining atmosphere, says Wadhwa. For the actual experience, make a reservation.
Attari Murg is beautifully presented; Traditional methods of cooking are on display.
Loya has distinctive cocktails, and Mulethi comes highly recommended.