Indian Regional Cuisine Grabs the Spotlight

Chefs are resurrecting forgotten recipes, reimagining traditional techniques, and showcasing the rich diversity of India's local flavours.

By Deepali Nandwani
Dine & Drink| May, 30

India's local flavours

As technology reshapes, how we live and travel it also deepens our connection to heritage, particularly in the realm of food and culinary traditions. Chefs are leading a culinary rediscovery, bringing regional Indian cuisine from home kitchens to the forefront, both in India and internationally.

 

While Indian diners continue to favour international cuisines like Japanese, Italian, and Chinese when dining out, there is a sharp curiosity about regional cuisine. This movement is redefining Indian food beyond well-known dishes like butter chicken and biryani to showcase the diverse ingredients, flavours, and regional specialities from various states and cultures.

 

Forgotten recipes are being resurrected, local ingredients celebrated, and traditional cooking techniques reimagined with a modern flair. By highlighting the complexity and depth of India's culinary traditions, chefs are reshaping global perception of Indian food and enriching the dining experience for those willing to explore beyond the mainstream.

 

Consider tasting the fiery vindaloo of Goa not as a quintessential curry but as a nuanced exploration of spice and history. Or envision a thali not featuring the usual dishes butshowcasing hyperlocal delicacies from a single district, each ingredient sourced from nearby farms.

 

Chef Manish Mehrotra, known for his work at Indian Accent before he quit, is the GOAT of Indian regional cuisine, introducing several unknown dishes into a restaurant and elevating it with a contemporary twist. His famous dishes include Burrata Chaat with crispy lotus and tomato chutney, Puri Aloo served with sweet pumpkin and pickle in a paani puri-like dish, Blue Cheese Naan and Meetha Achaar Ribs.

 

At his restaurant Kappa Chakka Kandhari in Chennai, Chef Regi Mathew offers a distinctive take on Keralan cuisine. Among his signature dishes is Kappa (Tapioca) with Fish Curry, a traditional pairing of tapioca (known as kappa) and rich, flavourful fish curry made with local fish like karimeen (pearl spot).  The Nadan Kozhi Curry is a chicken curry made with authentic spices, paired with appam or idiyappam (string hoppers). Chef Mathew has introduced Kerala-inspired sushi, in which conventional ingredients like coconut, seafood, and local spices are creatively paired with sushi rolls, a Japanese twist to the region’s culinary traditions.

 

Though better known for his television persona and influence on an entire generation of chefs, Sanjeev Kapoor has also been an advocate for regional Indian cuisines. His restaurants, such as The Yellow Chilli, bring attention to regional specialities from across India, ranging from coastal Kerala seafood dishes to the bold flavours of Punjabi cuisine. His menus feature diverse dishes from all corners of India, from Rajasthani Dal Baati Churma to coastal seafood from Kerala. He also champions the cause of regional Indian cuisine as part of elaborate wedding feasts, urging people to go back to their roots.

 

In Mumbai, Chef Anahita Dhondy celebrates the rich food culture of the Parsi community through her restaurants and pop-ups by focusing on traditional Parsi dishes like Dhansak and Salli Boti. Specialising in southern Indian and coastal cuisine, Chef Shyam Sundar works to highlight the often-overlooked culinary traditions of the region. His focus is on use of fresh, local seafood and the art of regional spice blending.

Sol Kadhi Ceviche from The Bombay Canteen.

Ekaa, Mumbai’s culinary gem, helmed by Chef Niyati Rao, takes you on a journey through India, showcasing the rich diversity of regional flavours and cooking techniques. Her Tapioca Chaat is a take on classic street food, featuring crispy tapioca pearls with tangy tamarind chutney and spices. Naga Mountain Pepper is a bold dish featuring Naga pepper, a prized ingredient from the northeast, paired with lamb brain, mole, and fermented fish chutney.

 

The Bombay Canteen, originally under the late chef Floyd Cardoz and Thomas Zacharias, and now led by Chef Hussain Shahzad, has championed regional flavours and indigenous ingredients. Founded by Sameer Seth and Yash Bhanage, Cornell University graduates inspired by their international culinary experiences, TBC bridges street food, home-style recipes, and fine dining, sourcing ingredients within a 150-mile radius and reimagining regional classics like lal bhaji, Bhutte ka Kees, and Nagaland Sesame Pork Curry.

 

The team expanded its vision with O Pedro, a Goan restaurant that honours authentic regional narratives while steering clear of oversimplified interpretations. Chef Cardoz, influenced by his family's roots, and Chef Shahzad, immersed in Goa’s culinary traditions, explored influences from Saraswat Brahmins to Portuguese settlers. Dishes like uddamethi, watana rasam, and poee reflect a deep respect for Goa’s culinary heritage while allowing for creative reinterpretation and modern innovation.

 

Far away from the metros are chefs rediscovering their neighbourhood and distilling the region in their cuisine. At his destination dining restaurant, Naar, in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh, Chef Prateek Sadhu is offering elevated dining using Himalayan ingredients. Naar (meaning ‘flavour’ in Sanskrit) has, in the past, served dishes such as Askalu, the Yak cheese cigar, Shabdeg, Mushkbudij Kashmiri rice topped with egg yolk and smoked lamb neck, and Pine, Pine, Pine, a show-stopping dessert that is an ode to the indigenous conifer chir found commonly in Himachal.

 

Goan chef Avinash Martins, based in his native village of Velim, Goa, runs Cavatina and Table in the Hills, a farm-to-table dining experience, set against a landscape of hills, lakes, and the sea. His food emphasises local sourcing, with processes like smoking meats and creating authentic Goan sauces,such as the fiery ambotik, carried out by artisans using age-old methods like stone grinding. “The pandemic marked a turning point. With supply chain disruptions, I turned to local foraging and connected with growers, delving into the culinary heritage of Goa's Saraswat and Bahujan communities, as well as the indigenous Velips, Gawdas, and Kunbis,” he says. “This journey informed my interpretation of Goan cuisine, moving beyond popular dishes to explore a deeper confluence of tribal and regional flavours,” he says.

Signature dishes like Hay Smoked Mackerel honour the fishing community's tradition of hay-smoking fish. The Postcards of Goa menu revisits lost recipes and cultural narratives, such as global influence of Goan poee bread. Through these dishes, Martins weaves together his vision of Goan cuisine, blending heritage and modern-day dining.

 

Sarvaa, also in Goa, offers a fusion of Goan flavours with contemporary culinary techniques. The menu showcases a mix of coastal delicacies, fresh seafood, and regional ingredients. Prawn Balchão, a spicy and tangy Goan shrimp pickle, is served with rice or crusty bread.  Goan Crab Xec Xec is a rich crab curry made with roasted spices, coconut, and tamarind, which imparts a tangy and spicy flavour, paired with steaming hot rice.

 

The Tanjore Tiffin Room debuted in Anjuna in a 150-year-old Portuguese bungalow. The menu is an exploration of Tamil cuisine, centered around small plates such as Marina Beach Sundal, a mix of vatana with raw mango, shredded coconut, and onions; the crispy yet soft Yam Cutlet, Mushroom Pepper Fry or mushrooms tossed in freshly ground pepper and fennel powder, and Madras Tiger Prawns, grilled to perfection with butter and pepper garlic masalas. It also serves classics such as Ennai Kathrika, small brinjals cooked in a tangy tamarind curry; Poriyal, dry mixed vegetables with grated coconut; and a creamy Madras Railway Curry.

 

Hosa in the sleepy village of Siolim dishes up an authentic take on traditional south Indian cuisine. The restaurant’s new brand chef Harish Rao has revived cherished, often-forgotten recipes from across the southern states. Dishes like Cracked Potatoes with Cauliflower Masiyal and Hibiscus Dust, an indulgent Kari Dosa topped with minced mutton and bone marrow hollandaise, and a flavourful Shimeji Mushroom Varuval with mushroom pâté, showcase the restaurant’s inventive approach. Madurai Lamb Shank is slow-roasted and served with potato noodles and pathri bread. Jackfruit is a star of several dishes, particularly Young Jackfruit Thokku served with ragi roti. Aubergine Steak reimagines the traditional dish into a vegetarian steak served with peanut sesame curry and yoghurt sphere, plated in the most interesting fashion.

 

Terrāi in Hyderabad, founded by restaurateur Rohit Kasuganti and creative leader Anisha Deevakonda, showcases deep-rooted culinary culture through locally sourced ingredients from women farmers and tribal chefs. Terrāi’s collaboration with the Deccan Development Society (DDS), a farmers’ cooperative empowering indigenous women in Telangana, is a key part of its mission. Terrāi is committed to promoting Telangana’s culinary identity through signature dishes such as Karim Nagar Fried Chicken Wings and Terai Mutton Curry with Masala Pooris, while also creating an immersive experience through restaurant design, which highlights Telangana’s artisanal legacy. Terrāi seeks to inspire a culinary renaissance for Telangana, elevating its place in the global food landscape and preserving its Nizam and Deccan influences.

Pop-ups play a crucial role

Akheraj Deolia, nestled between Marwar and Mewar in Rajasthan, boasts a diverse culinary legacy. Founded by Rao Akheraj, grandson of Rao Chandrasen f Jodhpur, its royal kitchens blend Marwar, Mewar, and Mughal traditions. Chef Akshraj Jodha, the 14th descendant of Rao Akheraj and custodian of Rajasthani cuisine at ITC Grand Bharat, has dedicated nearly two decades to preserving this heritage. He delved into family lore and oral traditions to uncover undocumented recipes, leading to a series of pop-ups featuring dishes like Junglee Maas. This rustic dish, inspired by royal hunts, is slow-cooked with ghee, whole red chillies, and rock salt. The cuisine also showcases regional ingredients like Kachri (wild melon used for tenderising meat) and millets like bajra. “The food I grew up eating is an incredible treasure trove of knowledge,” says Jodha, whose Akheraj Deolia showcase at ITC Maurya years ago sparked renewed interest in this culinary heritage.

 

Kerala's diverse geography and climate are reflected in its regional cuisines. Niraamaya Retreats showcases this culinary variety across its hotels. In Kumarakom, on the backwaters, expect raw mango and freshwater fish. Thekkady, nestled in spice-laden hills, features dishes with black pepper, cardamom, meat, and river fish. Chef Prakash at Niraamaya Retreats – Backwaters & Beyond, Kumarakom, finds inspiration in the diverse culinary traditions surrounding Lake Vembanad. His menu celebrates the culinary practices of Hindus, Christians, and Muslims, incorporating everything from fresh seafood to distinctive appams. Chef Prakash curates “an eclectic and experimental dining experience” that highlights the cultural and religious influences shaping the region's cuisine. Traditional cooking methods, like wrapping dishes in banana leaves, are adapted to each retreat's setting. Furthermore, culinary innovations like jackfruit-based cheesecakes and the chef’s signature 12-course Kerala tapas enhance the locavore experience.

 

A new wave of Naga foodpreneurs is bringing Naga cuisine to the world. Chef Joel Basumatari, an IIHM Kolkata graduate, re-explores Naga dishes in a modern context. He established India’s first slow food community in Ghathashi village, Zunheboto district, supporting sustainable farming and seed banking. His brand, Saucy Joe’s, features indigenous produce like rock bee honey, Naga basil, black rice, and chilli-based sauces. Chef Alemjungla Jamir, another trailblazer, runs the Naga Bowl Express in Dimapur, serving authentic Naga thalis with delicacies like Pork Bamboo Shoots, Smoked Pork with Fermented Yam leaves, and Perilla Chicken. Jamir’s impressive culinary journey includes experience at The Oberoi and ITC hotels.

Gaggan Anand's light-hearted culinary rendition.

In Ladakh, Chef Nilza Wangmo has introduced her native cuisine to a wider audience through her restaurant Alchi Kitchen. Among the dishes she serves are Skyu, a Ladakhi pasta dish with vegetables and meat, Tingmo, a type of steamed bread, and Chhurpi, a local cheese made from yak milk. Chef Mingur is a monk-turned-chef who runs The Heritage Kitchen in Stone Hedge and is dedicated to preserving local herbs and culinary traditions, offering hearty meals that reflect the region's cultural heritage.

 

Independent chefs, many self-taught and passionate about their native cuisines, are significantly promoting regional Indian food through pop-up dinners and private events. These temporary culinary experiences have been instrumental in introducing regional flavours to a global audience. Independent chefs utilise digital platforms to promote their curated tasting menus and cooking masterclasses, further expanding the reach of diverse cuisines.

 

In her century-old ancestral home in Camurlim, Goa, Shubhra Shankhwalker, the founder of Aai’s, hosts intimate lunches showcasing lesser-known Gaud Saraswat Brahmin cuisine. She also collaborates with restaurants and hotels for pop-up events.

 

“A common misconception,” she says, “is that Goan Hindu food is vegetarian. The cuisine includes chicken, mutton, and fish.” Shankhwalker sources seasonal ingredients from across Goa, using family recipes for dishes like Stuffed Mackerel (Bharilly Bangdo), Sungtache Hooman (prawn curry), Ambadyache Sasam (tangy hog plum curry), and Mango Sasam (sweet and tangy mango curry). She emphasises freshness, avoids packaged masalas, and makes everything from scratch in her kitchen.

 

The annual Feast in the Field, hosted by Cazulo Feni founder Hansel Vaz, brings together the community for a dining experience surrounded by fields of vegetables, Alsande beans (crowder pea) and sweet potato. On the table are dishes cooked by village women such as Seafood Caldeirade (a Portuguese-inspired seafood stew), Pork Vindaloo, Red Pumpkin Ambotik, and Khatkhate, a medley of seven vegetables.

 

The Bohri Kitchen is the OG of independent culinary ventures. Founded by Munaf and Nafisa Kapadia in Mumbai, The Bohri Kitchen (TBK) began as a home dining experience and evolved into a brand showcasing Bohra Muslim cuisine. TBK specialises in dishes like Raan in Red Masala (slow-cooked leg of lamb), Smoked Mutton Kheema Samosas, Dabba Gosht (baked mutton with eggs and spices), and Kaari Chawal (mutton curry with fragrant rice).

A Chef Arora creation.

Kappa with spicy fish curry from Kappa Chakka Kandhari.

Indian chefs spice up the global culinary scene

Curries and Butter Chicken once defined Indian food for the international diner. That was then. Now, Indian-origin chefs have redefined the culinary experience for the global audience. The recent US Michelin Guide awarded stars to three Indian restaurants: Semma in New York City, Rania in Washington DC, and Indienne in Chicago.

 

At Semma, chefs Roni Mazumdar, Chintan Pandya and Vijay Kumar, the creative minds behind establishments like Dhamaka, Rowdy Rooster and Adda, present dishes inspired by rural South Indian recipes. The menu highlights the diverse culinary heritage of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Kerala, and beyond, featuring specialities like Meen Pollichathu, Dindigul Biryani, Gunpowder Dosa, Kudal Varuval (goat intestines with toddy-fermented dosa), and Nathai Pirattal (snails cooked with ginger, tamarind, and toddy).

 

At Rania, Executive Chef Chetan Shetty, previously of Indian Accent New York, crafts an inventive menu marrying Indian flavours with global cooking techniques. Standout dishes include Shiso Leaf Chaat, Ghee-roast Lamb in a Lentil Cheela, accompanied by buttermilk mousse, and Kesari Mango, an artful dessert with frozen yoghurt, coconut mousse and sesame brittle.

 

Chef Sujan Sarkar helms the kitchen at Indienne, offering a six-course tasting menu that reimagines Indian flavours through a global lens. Signature creations include Passionfruit Pani Puri in a Buckwheat Tart, Roasted Scallops in malai curry, Hamachi with Kokum Sol Kadi and Stone Fruit, Fava and Edamame Tikkis, and Medu Vada with Butternut Squash Sambhar and Pepper Pachadi. The Michelin Guide describes his cuisine as "pieces of art that taste like familiar favourites pulled from his vibrant homeland". Chef Sarkar is particularly acclaimed for delving into rural culinary traditions of north India, especially Uttar Pradesh, where he emphasises authentic regional techniques rooted in centuries-old practices to offer diners a taste of India's rich and diverse food culture.

 

Chef Vikas Khanna's wildly popular restaurant, Bungalow NY, which was just awarded Michelin 2024 Bib Gourmand, serves authentic and comforting Indian cuisine with nostalgic touches and playful twists. Khanna blends storytelling with (un)familiar flavours and textures (for the global audience), evident in dishes like Shakkarkandi Chaat with Ashwagandha Bundi. Jimmy Rizvi’s ‘Ammi’s Lamb Chops’ are prepared with raw papaya, aamchur, and jaggery. Kiss Of Kashmir features regional produce like lotus roots and pickled turnips, while White Peas Guguni is elevated with date tamarind, mint, and chickpea noodles.

Chef Vineet Bhatia

Chef Vineet Bhatia is well known for culinary ingenuity that has resulted in modern interpretations of regional cuisine.

At Rasika in Washington, D.C., Chef Vikram Sunderam offers a modern interpretation of food from southern India. His refined approach to traditional dishes such as dosas, idlis and seafood curries showcases the depth and diversity of South Indian cuisine.

 

Rahi in New York offers a menu of "unapologetically Indian" dishes, showcasing regional specialities and street food. Chef Sriram Aylur has elevated southern India coastal cuisine to global acclaim at his Michelin-starred restaurant Quilon in London with his emphasis on fresh seafood and nuanced spicing in dishes like Meen Moilee (fish curry in coconut milk) and Malabar Prawn Curry.

 

Chef Vineet Bhatia is widely regarded as the OG Indian chef who introduced the world to regional cuisine in modern forms. One of his most celebrated creations is the visually stunning Rose Jalebi on a Tres Leches base, a dessert that has caused quite a sensation. This innovative dish is just one example of his culinary ingenuity, following the success of his famous Chocolate Samosas, which became so popular that patrons demanded their inclusion on the menu whenever he opened a new restaurant. In addition to his restaurant success, Chef Bhatia has developed a line of dehydrated spice mixes, allowing home cooks to recreate his distinctive flavours in their kitchens.

 

Chef Gaggan Anand in Bangkok gained international acclaim for his playful approach to Indian flavours and dining, which is about more than just food—it’s a performance. His food features dishes that challenge the guest's perception of taste, with presentations like Lick It Up, a dish based on the Holi festival, and Brain Freeze, an ice cream dish where diners guess the ingredients. Anand uses global influences, cutting-edge kitchen technology, and complex flavour combinations to create an unforgettable experience for his diners.

 

At Gaa, Bangkok, Chef Garima Arora seamlessly combines Indian textures and flavours with Thai ingredients. Each dish reflects her creative approach to regional traditions. She says, “When we started, we always had people coming in and asking for curry and naan, but we never had that. People are much more open to new experiences today. They understand the nuances of Indian cuisine and how delicate it can be. Micro Indian cuisine is gaining traction internationally. So when people, in fact, now come in, they want a version of Indian cuisine that they haven't had before. And this has changed over the last decade since we've been open.”

 

Her menu draws inspiration from both countries' rich culinary traditions, creating an unusual dining experience. Some of her notable dishes include Blue Swimmer Crab paired with macadamia milk, served with jaggery emulsification, and Betel Leaf creations that combine savoury elements with delicate flavours. “Not only us, but because of all the hard work Indian chefs have put into India has changed the perception of Indian food,” says Chef Arora. “Not to mention the contribution of Indian chefs who are moving abroad to open their own restaurants.”

 

From forgotten recipes to bold reinterpretations, Indian cuisine is experiencing a renaissance. Chefs across India and beyond are redefining its narrative, celebrating heritage, innovation, and local flavours. Once limited by stereotypes, Indian food now tells rich, global stories of culture, land, and creativity, served with pride and purpose.