From Forgotten to Forever: The Story of Bari Kothi

Once abandoned, this Sheherwali mansion’s journey is a testament to meticulous restoration, cultural preservation, and a vision that defied time.


 

By Rupali Sebastian
Travel| May, 29

There was a time when Azimganj, a riverine town in Murshidabad, was a thriving centre of wealth and culture. In the 18th and 19th centuries, it was home to the Sheherwalis, a Jain merchant community from Rajasthan who built some of Bengal’s grandest mansions. Among them stood Bari Kothi, built by Rai Bahadur Budh Singh Dudhoria in the late 1700s, a palace where royalty dined and the Bhagirathi carried echoes of whispered negotiations and celebration.

 

But history turned, and so did Azimganj’s fortunes. As British trade shifted to Calcutta, Murshidabad declined, and by the mid-20th century, land reforms and economic upheavals forced Sheherwali families to abandon their ancestral homes. Bari Kothi was left to decay—roofs collapsed, frescoes crumbled, and time etched its own story into the walls.

 

"Every time it rained, we’d get a call saying another section had collapsed," recall Darshan and Lipika Dudhoria, descendants of the family that once lived there.

 

Returning wasn’t easy. “It was eerie,” Darshan admits. “My father slept with a gun under his pillow.” But the deeper question remained—if they didn’t restore Bari Kothi, who would?

 

What began as a modest effort to restore one courtyard soon turned into something much bigger. Canadian conservation architect Dr. Samar Chandra guided the restoration, focusing on preservation over replacement. Original wooden beams were reinforced, lime plaster replaced cement, and stained-glass windows were carefully restored.

 

Then, National Geographic discovered Bari Kothi. Their feature on the restoration became a turning point. Encouraged, the family restored another wing, then more rooms. First, the family gatherings returned. Then friends came flocking.

 

Then, one evening, they hosted 500 guests.

Architecturally, Bari Kothi is a fusion of Rajasthani, Bengali and European influences.

From family legacy to boutique heritage hotel

“The house had to sustain itself,” says Darshan. “And what better way than to let people experience it the way it was meant to be?” What started as a personal effort to restore a family home soon transformed into something much larger—a boutique heritage hotel, part of the RARE India collection. Every space was restored with painstaking detail, ensuring that guests weren’t just staying in a hotel but immersing themselves in a living piece of history.

 

The guest accommodations at Bari Kothi reflect its heritage while offering an intimate luxury experience. The 15 rooms are divided into three categories: Heritage Suites, Royal Heritage Suites, and Maharaja Heritage Suites, all adorned with period furniture and artefacts—some more than a century old. Amar Pakshi, inspired by the mythical phoenix, features stunning stained-glass elements that cast shifting colours across the room, a tribute to the theme of rebirth and renewal. Mardana Mahal, restored with painstaking care, showcases antique Bengal bricks salvaged from the ruins, while Diamond Kamra, named for its elegance, features intricate detailing that captures the understated sophistication of Sheherwali grandeur.

 

Beyond the rooms, Bari Kothi’s public spaces reflect its deep-rooted past. The Gaddi Ghar, where the family once held court, has been transformed into an intimate lounge, a perfect contrast to the Darbar Hall, which showcases the grand European architectural influences that crept into Sheherwali homes over time. Both, incidentally, count among Darshan’s favourites. “Every corner has a story to tell, but these are like a seat of history, of power, of a lot of conversations.” 


 

Bada Aagan with a fountain (no longer functional) which once brought life and beauty to the courtyard; Looking towards the Mardana Mahal, across the Amtala courtyard from the Janana Mahal.

A stay steeped in storytelling

Bari Kothi is more than just a beautifully restored mansion—it is an experience, meticulously curated to immerse guests in the Sheherwali way of life. Every detail, from the first chime of temple bells in the morning to the candlelit evenings by the river, is part of a grand narrative that celebrates the culture, history, and traditions of Azimganj. Guests wake up to the rhythmic lapping of the Bhagirathi and sip morning chai as the soft golden light filters through stained-glass windows, just as the Sheherwalis once did. Meals unfold as a sensory journey through centuries-old recipes, each dish a tribute to a lost culinary heritage, from the fragrant kathal biryani to saffron-laced sweets.

 

For Darshan, these experiences came from necessity as much as vision. “When I knew I had to protect the boys and girls who work here, I had to ensure we attracted the right kind of traveller. That meant curating an experience that matched the price point we were charging. So, we started crafting things that we ourselves would pay for—experiences that were meaningful and rooted in the land.” That philosophy has shaped every hour of a guest’s stay. No moment is left unconsidered—whether it’s a guided heritage walk through Azimganj’s forgotten lanes, a boat ride at dusk as the river glows with floating diyas, or an impromptu conversation with a local artisan.


 The storytelling extends to the grand celebrations hosted at Bari Kothi. Among them, the most significant is Durga Puja, which the family has pledged to continue for nine years. Guests at Bari Kothi don’t simply witness the puja; they are guided through every step, understanding the symbolism, the artistry, the cultural depth behind the grand spectacle that unfolds.

The Theatre Balcony, from where the family once watched live performances.

Every experience at Bari Kothi is carefully mapped, ensuring that no guest is ever left idling—unless idling itself is an intentional part of their itinerary. “We’ve done very controlled experience planning,” Lipika says. “The host spends the first few hours getting a sense of what the guest enjoys, and then advises them—why don’t you do this, or maybe try that?” That might mean a deep dive into textile traditions, an afternoon of pottery, or an evening of Baul music that echoes through the corridors, connecting the past with the present. Designed not just for immersion but for preservation, these curated experiences safeguard both the tangible and intangible heritage of the region—celebrating the rich cultural tapestry of the Sheherwalis while also honouring Bengal’s wider artistic, musical, and culinary traditions.

 

Luxury here is not about excess—it is about time, space, and immersion. There are no infinity pools or over-the-top indulgences. Instead, Bari Kothi offers something far more rare: the opportunity to step into history, to linger in spaces where generations have come before, and to reconnect with a slower, more thoughtful way of life.

 

For Darshan and Lipika Dudhoria, the measure of success is not just the revival of their ancestral home but its impact on the community. The restoration process has provided employment to local youth, transformed unskilled workers into a skilled workforce, and touched lives beyond a single hospitality entity. Bari Kothi's transformation has not gone unnoticed—the property has been recognised with prestigious accolades, including the title of 'Heritage Grand Hotel of East India' by the India’s Ministry of Tourism.

 

As the sun sets over the Bhagirathi, casting golden light on Bari Kothi’s Corinthian pillars, it is clear that the effort has been worth it. What was once a ruin is now a sanctuary. A palace that had fallen silent now hums with life once more.

The kothi's delicate metal work, like the rest of the elements, has been painstakingly restored.

Reinventing heritage dining

In a state renowned for its love of fish and meat, Bari Kothi stands apart as a purely vegetarian destination—an unconventional yet deeply intentional choice. “We lose 20-30% of our business just by being vegetarian,” admits Darshan Dudhoria, Co-founder, Bari Kothi, “but every guest who dines here walks away convinced that vegetarian food can be extraordinary.”

 

Rather than serving predictable staples, Bari Kothi has turned Sheherwali cuisine into an immersive experience, where storytelling is as much a part of the meal as the flavours on the plate. The dining experience unfolds in seven carefully curated courses, allowing guests to focus on the intricacies of each dish rather than the usual thali-style mix. Every meal is an education in history and migration—why does Kheere ki Kachori, a crisp pastry filled with refreshing cucumber, exist? What’s the origin of Saloni Mewa ki Khichdi, a delicately spiced rice dish with nuts?

 

Seasonal delicacies like Neemus, an airy saffron-infused milk froth, and Pitha, sweet dumplings similar to dim sums, are prepared with time-honoured techniques, their intricate folds a work of art in themselves. “We serve anything but ‘iPad’—I eat Paneer, Aloo, Dal,” Darshan jokes. Every dish has a history, and guests leave Bari Kothi not just with memories of a meal but with a newfound appreciation for India’s vegetarian heritage.

The boutique hotel serves delectable fare from the Sheherwali cuisine.

Q&A with Darshan Dudhoria, Co-Founder, Bari Kothi

The co-founder of Bari Kothi on restoring a Sheherwali palace, redefining luxury through authenticity, and creating a sustainable model where heritage, hospitality, and community thrive together.


Restoring a heritage property is one thing, but running it as a boutique hotel is another. To top that, you and Lipika were first-time hoteliers—what was that experience like?


It was daunting, to say the least. I know I’ve shared a lot of happy stories, but the reality is that we worked incredibly hard to get Bari Kothi off the ground. Terms like FTOs, FITs, and DMCs meant nothing to us at first—we had to start from scratch, learning the language of the tourism business.

 

On top of that, we launched at the worst possible time—right before COVID hit. And our other businesses—textiles and retail—also took a massive hit because of the pandemic. Hospitality and retail were two of the worst-affected sectors, and we were caught right in the middle of both.

 

The restoration itself was another challenge. Murshidabad had incredible craftsmanship in its past, but most skilled artisans had left for bigger cities. The best carpenters were running their own shops, focused on their businesses rather than taking on projects. But when you start something with clarity of purpose, when you commit to making it work, the world opens up for you. Solutions present themselves. One connection leads to another, one door opens to another, and slowly, things start falling into place.

 

Ironically, what we thought was our worst nightmare—the pandemic—became the unexpected turning point. Before COVID, we had hosted almost exclusively international guests. But with travel restrictions in place, people from Kolkata, who had very few options for weekend getaways, started coming to Bari Kothi. It was just a four-hour drive away, and suddenly, we became a buzzword.


 

Siblings Lipika and Darshan Dudhoria, Founders, Bari Kothi.

Why did you choose to hire and train local staff instead of bringing in experienced professionals from cities like Kolkata?

 

It started as a very practical question—where would we find our team? Initially, we considered bringing in people from Kolkata, but then reality set in. Would they truly understand the ethos of Bari Kothi? Would they blend into the environment? And if they didn’t, would our guests feel that disconnect? Then there was the question of logistics—where would they stay? How would they adjust to life in a small town like Azimganj?

 

At the same time, something incredible was happening around us. During the restoration, we had young men and women working as daily wage labourers—picking up stones, moving bricks, clearing debris. And among them, some stood out—sharp, observant, eager to learn. One day, we just thought—why not ask them? Why not train them? And that’s how it began. One thing led to another, and before we knew it, we had a 30-member strong team—locals who didn’t just understand the property, but also the community, the history, and the kind of people who would visit. And every single person who works here lives close by. They either walk, cycle, or take a tuk-tuk, no more than 20 minutes from Bari Kothi.


 

How did you determine the pricing for Bari Kothi?

 

It was a fascinating process, actually—one that unfolded organically as we were restoring the property. The question was simple: if we were going to open our doors to guests, how do we price our rooms? We realised very quickly that we didn’t want just anyone walking in. Bari Kothi is not just about providing a place to stay; it’s about heritage, culture, and community. We wanted people who would appreciate and respect that.

 

We knew that if we priced ourselves at ₹5,000 or ₹7,000 a night, we would attract a different kind of traveller—one who might not value the historical and cultural depth of the place. That wasn’t the experience we wanted to create. So, we set our pricing aggressively at ₹16,000 to ₹20,000 per night in different package formats, ensuring that those who came were genuinely interested in what we were offering.

 

To be honest, a big part of it was also about protecting our team. The last thing I wanted was a guest walking in and speaking down to them—mocking their English, questioning their skills, or treating them with disrespect. That wasn’t something we were willing to compromise on.


 

A Royal Heritage Suite. This category of rooms are furnished with 250-year-old furniture and rich fabrics.

Inclusivity seems to be a defining pillar at Bari Kothi. Was this always part of the plan, or did it evolve naturally?

 

Honestly, none of this was mapped out on an Excel sheet or written as a mission statement. It just happened. Our part of the world has such a diverse demographic, and people from all backgrounds found their way here. If someone had the right attitude and willingness to work, they became part of Bari Kothi—regardless of caste, creed, or faith.

 

Take our Diwali puja, for example. For the past seven years, it has been conducted by a Muslim girl. It’s become a tradition now, and we never even thought twice about it. And it’s not just religious inclusivity—our team is made up of women, transgenders, Santali tribals, and even those with disabilities. One of our most hardworking team members is deaf and mute. Guests interact with him, and somehow, despite no spoken words, there is a connection. I’ve seen guests embrace him when they leave, forming bonds that go beyond language.


 

Sustainability is a word that’s often used in different contexts. What does it mean to you at Bari Kothi?

 

Sustainability is one of those words that gets thrown around a lot these days—it’s attached to textiles, organic food, eco-tourism, and so on. But for me, it’s something much deeper. It’s not just about ticking off a checklist of "green" initiatives. Sustainability, in my eyes, is about causing minimal damage to the environment while actively enabling it to thrive. If we can achieve that balance, then we are truly sustainable. So now impact has taken centre stage. Our model is called Project HHH—heritage, hospitality, humanity—building humanity through hospitality by saving heritage. Today, we are very proud that we’ve ticked off 13 of the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. And in the next project that we're looking to do, we’re hoping achieve 17 out of 17.

The Darbar Hall: vibrant majolica tiles, delicate chandeliers, ornate rose artwork, handpainted glass doors create an atmosphere steeped in history.

How has Bari Kothi contributed to the local economy?

 

Bari Kothi has directly or indirectly impacted the livelihoods of at least 5,000 to 10,000 people in the local community. I’ll never forget the first people who came to thank us—it wasn’t the hotel staff, it wasn’t even our guests. It was the boatmen. They told us, “You’ve quadrupled our income.” The impact was immediate and tangible.

 

But for us, the realisation was clear—we could have built our own fancy boats, we could have imported furniture, we could have created a ‘picture-perfect’ heritage hotel. But that would have made us outsiders in our own land. We couldn’t impose a vision that was disconnected from the people who still lived here. Instead, we focused on two things: keeping everything genuine and authentic.


 

Who is the typical Bari Kothi guest?

 

Internationally, our guests are usually seasoned travellers, often slightly older, who have already seen the usual hotspots and now seek deeper cultural immersion. They appreciate history, storytelling, and authenticity. On the domestic front, however, it’s much more varied. We host milestone celebrations—40th birthdays, 50th anniversaries, even remarriages in a traditional Bengali setting. We had a French couple travel all the way from Paris to celebrate their 50th anniversary with a Bengali wedding. Imagine—first-time visitors to India deciding to get married in Murshidabad! That’s the power of social media and word of mouth.

 

Broadly, our guests are people who are done with cookie-cutter hotels. They don’t want soulless banquets or copy-paste luxury. They are looking for something that feels personal, immersive, and meaningful. And the most incredible part? Nearly 30% of our guests are repeat visitors. 


 

A glimpse from Bari Kothi of the neighbouring buildings showcases the boutique property's historic milieu.

How do you strike a balance between offering a luxury experience while maintaining authenticity?

 

I define luxury in three ways: the quality of what you touch and feel, the quality of the people you interact with, and the quality of time spent in a place.

 

At Bari Kothi, we’ve ensured that every physical touchpoint is of the highest standard. The bed linens, towels, and furnishings are all top-notch, designed to meet the expectations of a discerning traveller. But beyond material luxury, what truly elevates the experience is the human connection. The people who work at Bari Kothi are not just following scripted courtesies—they are genuinely invested in every guest’s experience. When they ask you what you do, they truly want to know. 

 

The third aspect of luxury is how time is spent. Every experience at Bari Kothi is deeply curated. Whether it’s a heritage walk, a boat ride, or a storytelling session, it’s about narrating history with accuracy and passion. The way we structure our tours, the attention to detail, the effort to make every experience immersive—that, to me, is true luxury.

 

What’s next for Bari Kothi?

 

We’ve always believed that heritage restoration can be more than just preserving buildings—it can transform entire districts. That’s the vision for what’s next. Over the next five to seven years, we plan to restore five more Bari Kothis, each with its own distinct history, while maintaining the same ethos of authenticity, community engagement, and cultural revival.

 

We are already in the process of acquiring a second property, and this is where the real test begins—can we replicate this model? Can we take what we’ve done in Azimganj and apply it to another district, ensuring that the revival of one haveli creates an economic and social ripple effect?

 

If this works, we are no longer just restoring old mansions; we are creating a scalable model for heritage conservation and rural impact. That’s the dream—to build something that doesn’t just preserve history but actively uplifts the communities around it. If we can do that, then we’ve truly created something transformative.

In Mardana Mahal, the floor beneath the bed has been crafted from leftover slats of the original kharkhari (louvered) windows.