In The Begums' Footsteps

Bhopal was the rare kingdom in India to have been ruled by a series of begums. The regal Jehan Numa Palace is an ode to their legacy, while Reni Pani Jungle Lodge offers a unique wildlife experience that blends luxury with a pristine forest experience.

 

 

By Suman Tarafdar
Travel| 16 September 2025

Women rulers. Almost an oxymoron in a land of deep-seated patriarchy. At best, a rarified phenomenon, evidenced only in few and far between cases. Yet India’s one kingdom had four begums ruling in succession (well, almost), collectively reigning for over a century (1819-1926), over a kingdom that not only flourished socially and economically but was even at a point regarded to have the highest GDP for any Indian city.

 

Whether true or not, the begums of Bhopal—nawabs in their own right—were instrumental in providing a stable and prosperous kingdom. They were prodigious sponsors of buildings—Taj-ul-Masajid, Gohar Mahal, Moti Mahal, Moti Masjid, Minto Hall, Taj Mahal (no, not to be confused with the one in Agra), Ahmedabad Palace, Jehan Numa Palace, amongst a host of others.

 

The last mentioned is today the cynosure of Bhopal, a growing metropolis and state capital. This flagship of the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels is named after Sultan Jehan Begum (re. 1901-26).  A great reformer who founded several educational institutions in Bhopal, started the practice of compulsory primary education in 1918, introduced vaccination programmes to the city, reformed taxation and civil services, and built irrigation facilities. It was in her honour that her second son, General Obaidullah Khan commissioned the palace in 1890.

 

It was transformed into a hotel in 1983 and is today a sylvan dream in white, combining Victorian, Italian Renaissance, and Classical Greek architectural styles. Jehan Numa Palace has created a market for leisure and luxury travellers in Bhopal and is at the core of the social life of the City of Nawabs. Weekends are buzzing with guests who travel from cities nearby, Rajasthan and Delhi, and locals who often dine out at one of its restaurants. The family also runs Jehan Numa Retreat on the edge of Bhopal, where its farm-to-table café attracts families and the young on weekends. Reni Pani Lodge and Bori Safari Lodge are their jungle lodges.

 

The palace stands on a gentle slope of Shamla Hills, on the southeastern side of Bhopal’s Upper Lake. Incidentally, it did not start life as a residence. Instead, it was initially the General's office and later used as offices, a hostel and even the offices of the Geological Survey of India.

 

The sprawling low-rise property is spread around courtyards that add to the experience akin to being in an English countryside estate. The property wears its architectural heritage lightly though—the white exteriors are interspersed with generous amounts of greenery in the shape of lawns, gardens, iconic trees and plants that add a layer of colour and vibrancy. The white walls are a perfect foil to the generous interplay of multi-hued bougainvillaeas.

 

The legacy is just as evident in the diverse dining spaces. Easily the most sought-after is the Under the Mango Tree. Yes, it’s under a century-old mango tree, now almost venerated by regulars. A courtyard restaurant offering signature dishes and regional favourites in an al fresco setting, it is also the repository of some of the legacy dishes of the family. Think Frontier Chapli Kebab, Fiery Jungli Maas, Filfora, and Gulab Ke Kheer.

 

At a special offering called The General’s Table, some of the dishes served during the general's wedding have been recreated and brought here. Shahnama is an all-day multi-cuisine restaurant while Shergar is a safari-themed lounge offering a relaxed atmosphere for drinks and small plates. Catch some of the most stunning portraits of magnificent wildlife here.The palace also caters to more contemporary preferences. For a slice of Italy in Bhopal drop into La Kuchina, complete with wood-fired pizzas and handmade pastas. Cafechino is a cosy café with artisanal coffee, fresh bakes, and light bites—and a lifetime away from the heritage. TAO—Pan Asian Restaurant & Bar, better known as Tattenham Corner—is the city’s first lounge bar and offers pan Asian flavours with a selection of wines and cocktails.

 

While Jehan Numa’s position as the city’s premier hotel remains unchallenged, the chains have entered, including Radisson, Marriott and Taj. Quite a few new hotels are being built, including the renovated Noor-Us-Sabah Palace, also built by the former royal family. The city, however, is redolent in its languid charms—lakes, bazaars, mosques, temples, forests, and above all a unique culture, best captured in the 1993 Merchant Ivory film Muhafiz, remarkably spotlighting the clash between modernisation and tradition.

 

Today, the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels has grown, especially into wildlife tourism, starting with Reni Pani in 2008, adjacent to the Satpura National Park. Jehan Numa Retreat, a nature-centric urban resort within Bhopal, followed in 2017 and Bori Safari Lodge the year after. Incidentally, the group’s next flag will be the picturesque historic city of Mandu.

Indulge in a unique dining experience at ‘Under the Babool Tree’ in Jehan Numa Retreat.

Chefs conjure a vast array of dishes; a lot of the ingredients are grown in-house.

Q & A With Faiz Rashid, Director, Jehan Numa Group of Hotels

He dwells upon the family's entry into the hospitality business and the uniqueness of its flagship property.

 

As part of the erstwhile royal family of Bhopal, to what point can the family history be traced?

Dost Mohammad Khan (1660–1726), a Pashtun soldier in the Mughal army, travelled from Afghanistan to Bhopal in the 17th century. However, for us, Bhopal's identity is linked to the begums who ruled for over 100 years and made Bhopal unique in comparison to other princely states in the country.


 How did your family get into hospitality?

It started when my father and uncle wanted to showcase their family legacy to the world and  thus converted Jehan Numa Palace into a heritage hotel. We (as a family) were into breeding horses and were looking at an alternative business. We had these properties that we wanted to restore. It was very tough to be able to maintain these properties without a fixed income coming into them, especially as they were falling apart. The best way to do that was hospitality. We started with about 16 rooms and gradually have expanded over the years to 100 rooms.

 

What were the challenges in converting Jehan Numa Palace to a hotel?

It was in a very bad way since it had been rented out to different organisations before it became a hotel. The building existed, but we just rented it out since no one (from the family) was living in it. The family was living in the house next door. We got an architect to restore the main section first. Over the years we have renovated the palace and changed things around. That's how it all began. All the office rooms were converted into rooms. The mango tree area used to be an open garden restaurant.

 

The initial design, by an English architect, was inspired by houses he had seen in England. The style is similar to that of The Imperial Hotel in Delhi. Some of the extensions came later, and we maintained the architectural style of the original.

Faiz Rashid, Director, Jehan Numa Group of Hotels.

In the family, the love for horses (runs deep), so we have incorporated them into our hospitality offerings.

 

Faiz Rashid

Director, Jehan Numa Group of Hotels

An offering fairly unique to the palace is the horses that guests can ride. How does this distinguish Jehan Numa?

In the family, the love for horses (runs deep), so we have incorporated them into our hospitality offerings. The family has a legacy of breeding horses at the Bhopal Stud, which was established in 1939 by Rashid uz-Zafar Khan, and mainly catered to racecourses in Mumbai and Pune. Incidentally, while the horses—four currently at the Palace—are in Bhopal for the summer, they are usually stationed at Reni Pani, where guests can take them on rides in the forest.
 

Why did the group decide to venture into wildlife tourism?

The family has always enjoyed the great outdoors, particularly around Bhopal. We got into wildlife lodges with Reni Pani at Satpura. It was not a very popular sanctuary, but we wanted to showcase experiences within the park. Reni Pani and Satpura worked really well with our model because it's the only park that allows us to conduct different activities and experiences.

 

Despite its remarkable legacy and scenic geography, Bhopal is not seen as a leisure destination. How can that change?

I feel this beautiful city should be a leisure destination. Whoever travels to the city falls in love with it. People don't understand Bhopal. They don't know where it is. It is a problem when you try to market it. But word of mouth from guests and travellers to the city attracts more travellers. Madhya Pradesh Tourism has also not really marketed Bhopal. They have got a lot of funds and budgets. They have to decide who they are going to cater to, and then focus continuously for four or five years on that segment to get the returns.

 

How do you view increasing competition from other hospitality players?

We are happy to see other hotels come up because they will help us market the city. You need more hands to get the leisure market going. The other crucial part of leisure travel is events, including weddings. So unless there is enough room inventory, events and weddings won’t be hosted here. To stand out in a crowded space, we are trying to carve a niche for ourselves with high-end leisure travellers, by focusing on experiences, unlike other hotels opening up with massive banquet halls. We are focusing on guests enjoying and appreciating Bhopal's legacy.

The interiors are warm, reflecting local aesthetic elements.

Horses are an integral part of the palace and lodge experiences; A number of massages are on offer in-house.

Q & A with Aly Rashid, Director and Field Naturalist, Jehan Numa Wilderness

He tells us how Reni Pani Jungle Lodge brings alive the magic of Satpura National Park.

 

Indian hospitality is on an unprecedented expansion spree, and heritage properties are on the radar of all the major players in the sector. Have you been approached?

Yes, a lot of chains have approached us. However, we do not want to go down that route. Our guests appreciate us for the personal touches we incorporate in the experience. We want to maintain the mood and the legacy.

 

What makes Satpura National Park stand out from the other parks in the region?

Satpura is one of the largest parks in central India. And because it's so large, there are mountains, there are forests, and there are rivers. It boasts a very diverse landscape and that brings about diversity of wildlife. I have explored the park since childhood. It is quite rewarding to see a park that didn't boast of much wildlife initially and was home to a lot of villages within the sanctuary, has now caught up and is regarded as a premium park.

 

Reni Pani was the group’s first foray into wildlife tourism. How did that happen? How is the experience different here?

When we started the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge in 2009, it was focused on experiencing the diversity of the forest, with river safaris, walking trails and birding. Satpura has a very diverse landscape and that brings about a diversity of wildlife. Because it's large, tourism is also spread out. When they started tourism here 15 years ago, we were one of the pioneering lodges. At that time, the forest department wanted a unique model because other parks such as Kanha and Bandhavgarh were known for tiger sightings, unlike here. So, how do we sell or invite tourists without too many tiger sightings? That's why they offered other activities such as boating, canoeing, and walking for a different visitor experience. People know that if you want to see a tiger, there are several parks. But if you want to walk in the core area, Satpura is the only one in central India. However, increasing tiger numbers have meant that walking in the core zone is no longer permitted.

 

Compared to Madhya Pradesh’s best-known national parks—Kanha, Pench, Bandhavgarh and Panna, Satpura flies relatively under the radar. Was that a challenge or an advantage?

Tourism is spread out; there's no mad rush. You get to see great sightings, which now include tigers, leopards, wild dogs, and sloth bears. Apart from the jeep safari, you can do the boat safari, the canoe safari, the walking safari (yes, you can walk in parts of the buffer zone now, a total no-no in most national parks in India) and the night safari. During the last census tabulated, the park had 65 tigers. I think two years down the line we will have close to 80 to 85 because the numbers have grown in two years; tiger sightings have picked up.

Aly Rashid, Director and Field Naturalist, Jehan Numa Wilderness.

None of the relocated villages have settled near the tourism gates. We want people from relocated villages to be employed in the lodges. It would be a better model, and more sustainable too.

 

Aly Rashid

Director and Field Naturalist, Jehan Numa Wilderness

What are some of the challenges for wildlife tourism in the area?

Right now, we have bottlenecks here as 20% of the park is open to tourism. We think that an actually bigger area should be open with lesser footfall. Right now, in most parks, you experience a lot of jeeps in a certain area and resultant bottlenecking. People from the villages at the entry gates are employed and benefit. However, 80% of villages all around the park do not benefit from tourism or employment. Forty villages have been moved out of Satpura in the last 20 years. None of the relocated villages have settled near the tourism gates. We want people from relocated villages to be employed in the lodges. It would be a better model, and more sustainable too. The excitement also lies in exploring a new destination. When we set this up, no one knew about Satpura. Our newest resort, Bori, was in an almost unknown place. As a first mover, we have a successful business model. I think other operators and we too should look at newer parks rather than going to the saturated parks. Staffing is not as much of a challenge as we employ locally and are lucky to have Jehan Numa Palace, from where senior staff come to train. But things like electricity are still a huge issue. We are running a generator for almost 12 to 14 hours a day sometimes. We get the electricity but the voltage is too low to run our equipment. Unfortunately, solar power is not an option here. We have a lot of forest cover and very little open ground.


 

What is the concept of the lodge?

It is a conservation-driven operation. We try to be as low impact as possible to the environment, as close to nature as possible. Most of our staff is from within a five-kilometre radius. Tourism plays a big role in conservation because it contributes to the local communities. We don't have to actually actively do conservation management, but by employing locals, by being the eyes and ears of the forest, and by bringing revenue to the park where tourism can be a vital contributor to conservation. When you look ahead, there seems to be an interest in wildlife tourism domestically.

 

Are you looking to expand wildlife lodges?

We are looking to grow. We are looking at one or two locations and soon hopefully we will zero in on one. We also have wildlife tours and are looking to do more guided wildlife holidays within India under Just Nature Expeditions.

A meal around the bonfire is an enchanting experience.

The sprawling low-rise property is spread around courtyards that add to the experience akin to being in an English countryside estate.

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