A massive all-American barn holds an intimate Michelin-starred Auro and the jovial inside-outside Truss, named for its roof beams. Truss’ kitchen has big windows for close-up viewing and it produces comfort food with panache, say roast chicken with truffle fries. Add Nehlik 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon in Riedel glasses.

England’s top winery resort, Lympstone Manor, in Devon, is the creation of one man, dynamic Michelin chef Michael Caines. In 2017, he bought a 1760s manor house on 28 acres of rolling pasture leading down to the beautiful River Exe. With professional help, he immediately planted 11 acres with Chardonnay, Meunier, and Pinot Noir (he bottles at nearby Lyme Bay Winery). The Manor has 21 rooms, all named for local birds—such as the Kingfisher—with great views. There are also six double-sized shepherds’ huts which guests with young kids particularly like. 

For visitors, this place is a continuous bliss. Stroll through the now-mature plantings, dotted with sensational modern sculptures. For Caines, it’s a continual challenge. He oversees the kitchen—the three-room restaurant is packed with lunch and dinner, mostly with locals. He has a GM but he is often pacing the whole, checking and planning. He hosts an annual festival of old cars. And there’s the vineyard.

In France, many top country resorts are near vineyards but Les Sources de Caudalie, near Bordeaux, is integral with Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards, 193 acres of them (their 2009 Graves achieved 100/100 from the god of grapes, Robert Parker). The whole complex is a skillful business operation, owned and run by a clever marketing family—hence the awareness and presence worldwide of Les Sources de Caudalie beauty products. One per cent of the operation’s wellness income goes to such sustainable initiatives as supporting indigenous Amazon tribes threatened with modernisation.

Spain has two outstanding wine regions, Rioja and the lesser-known Priorat. In Rioja, the standout is the Marques de Riscal, opened by the previous ruler, King Juan Carlos, as his father had many wine tastings here. Architect Frank Gehry designed a multi-coloured adult-sized Hobbit house with rolling titanium canopies as roofing: the canopies are silver, for bottles’ caps, gold, for bottles’ wires, and pink, for rosé wine and they are cleaned by abseilers using high-pressure hoses. This is a once-in-a-lifetime resort. It’s on 2,741 planted acres, it has 43 bedrooms—and the spa, once again, is Caudalie.

By contrast, those who know want to head again and again to Priorat, a 90-minute drive from Barcelona. Mas d’en Bruno, a year-old Relais property that is already in Travel+Leisure’s 10 best hotels in the world, immediately feels like home.  Hotelier David Stein has converted an old farmhouse and filled it and adjacent buildings with David Hockneys and other art, and books galore. Two restaurants, an underground tasting-lecture room, a big pool and vines right up to your window. In room 50, laze in your private pool while caressing a planting.

Of course, as with anything in hospitality the more you start to research the more you realise there’s still to do. What about winery resorts in Italy, South Africa, Australasia, India? Watch this space.

Do winery resorts make money?

A winery resort classification covers an accommodation that has an integral working vineyard, but just having a few rows of vines does not guarantee business success. A vineyard also comes with continuing skilled responsibility.

• Let’s look at three new entrants to the world of winery resorts. In the USA, Four Seasons Resort and Residences, Napa Valley, in Calistoga CA, hosts the Elusa Winery on its 23-acre estate. It works with winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, an economist who diverted to viticulture as an initial hobby. The 85-room hotel’s exuberant GM, Robby Delaney, has also progressed. His wine passion now adds to using vineyards to attract more business.  Pools, fitness and plenty of space for, say, winery weddings give this resort a community flavour with endless potential revenue channels.
   

• The resort’s also foodie feasting. A massive all-American barn holds an intimate Michelin-starred Auro and the jovial inside-outside Truss, named for its roof beams. Truss’ kitchen produces comfort food with panache, say roast chicken with truffle fries. Add an outdoor cook school, which transforms into a sushi counter at weekends. For a two-night weekend stay, 1 to 3 October, booking.com rates start at US$5,343.

• England’s top winery resort, Lympstone Manor, in Devon, is the creation of one man, dynamic Michelin chef Michael Caines. In 2017 he bought a 1760s manor house on 28 acres of rolling pasture leading down to the beautiful River Exe. With professional help, he immediately planted 11 acres with Chardonnay, Meunier, and PinotNoir (he bottles at nearby Lyme Bay Winery).The Manor has 21 rooms, all named for local birds—Kingfisher, #24, has great views.

• There are also six double-sized shepherds’ huts which guests with young kids particularly like. For visitors this place is continuous bliss. Stroll the now-mature plantings, dotted with sensational modern sculptures. For Caines, it's a continual challenge. He oversees the kitchen—the three-room restaurant is packed for lunch and dinner, mostly with locals. He has a General Manager, but he is often seen pacing the restaurant, checking and planning. He hosts an annual festival of old cars. Events spread over several days, with lots of opportunities to separate participants from their cash. There are, as year-round, well-displayed card boxes holding bottles of wine—red, white and sparkling—to buy. For a two-night weekend stay, 1 to 3 October, booking.com rates start at £2,122.

• Spain’s Priorat wine region, 90 minutes’ drive from Barcelona, is home to Mas d’en Bruno, a year-old beauty that’s already in Travel+Leisure’s 10 best hotels in the world. Hands-on owner David Stein has converted an old farmhouse and adjacent buildings to give 24 rooms. Genuine David Hockney and Frank Stella art works and books galore give ambience. Two restaurants, an underground tasting-lecture room with bottle sales, and a respected spa and gorgeous pool attract business, as dovines right up to bedroom windows. And that business is needed: costs include an experienced Relais & Chateau General Manager and a staff-count of 50. For a two-night weekend stay, 1 to 3 October, booking.com rates start at €1,866.

• As with any hotel, city or rural, being in the industry is hard work. It’s essential to have a high-profile leader, and successful winery resorts have an added advantage—vineyards.