A marathon through leopard country
Jawai's ancient boulder hills have earned a reputation as a unique landscape where elusive leopards and Rabari herders coexist peacefully. Today, yoga at dawn and a newly introduced trail marathon are expanding the region's appeal to a diverse range of travellers.
By Deepali Nandwani
Jawai is home to one of India’s largest leopard populations, set within a landscape that can feel otherworldly to those with vivid imaginations. The area features only a handful of pathways into the jungle, scattered private properties, and a limited presence of the Indian forest department.
Hill after hill of ancient, rounded boulders, some of the oldest exposed rock in the subcontinent and the colour of old bone, are stacked into low hills the locals call koppies. The sky shifts colour from a brilliant blue to rose to amber. Between boulder hills are scrublands, grass, fields, and the cerulean water of the Jawai Bandh, the reservoir held by the dam commissioned in the 1940s under Jodhpur’s Maharaja Umaid Singh. The blue sheet of water brings alive the boulder-dominated landscape, and is home to crocodiles basking along its margins, flamingos, cranes and bar-headed geese that fish in its shallows.
But the region itself is dominated by leopards, those shy, elusive big cats that camouflage against the boulders. You look at the hillside for a rather long time, following your safari guide’s instruction, and all you see is a huge rock, until an ear turns and the whole shape comes loose from the hill. Here, the leopard coexists with the Rabari community, many of whom farm in the fields within the granite hills, scrub and village commons around Jawai Bandh, largely outside any formal protected-area designation.

International Yoga Day brings wellness to the heart of leopard country.

Leading the sunrise session amidst Jawai's ancient boulders.
Its leopards centre on the Jawai Bandh Leopard Conservation Reserve, notified in 2010, but range across a wider patchwork of village and revenue land, a looseness now under review, with courts and the forest department moving toward tighter protection and possible sanctuary status. The coexistence between leopards and the Rabari herders isn’t happening inside a managed reserve with buffer zones and core areas; it’s happening on ordinary inhabited terrain, which is why the story is about tolerance and shared ground rather than about protected wilderness.
This, while ideal in an ideal world, has a negative connotation in the real world: leopards are often chased by unchecked jeeps, people walk across the terrain, shout at each other from one jeep to another, while the big cat, for very good reason, hides from plain sight. But that’s a story for another day.

Perfectly camouflaged amongst the granite boulders, the leopard is Jawai's most celebrated resident.

The search for Jawai's elusive leopards begins as the light begins to fade.
The new story that’s unfolding
Rajasthan tourism, the local Jawai administration under the district collector, and Aaramgah Jawai Resort & Spa, a member of Radisson Individual Retreats, are working to write a new story for the region, one that reaches past the leopard safari without leaving it behind. The cats remain the heart of the experience, but wellness and adventure now sit alongside them.
On June 21, International Yoga Day, an early morning yoga session was organised by Aaramgah and the local administration amidst the boulders, with a view of the Jawai Bandh and its blue waters, and the district collector, Dr Ravindra Goswami, in attendance. And then there is India’s first wildlife trail marathon, slated for 24 January, 2027, an Aaramgah initiative developed with Rajasthan Tourism and local authorities. Its first edition offers two categories, 12 and 24kms., on a route that starts and ends at the resort and dips through the dam’s catchment, dry ground once the water recedes. A professional organiser was brought in to survey the terrain for safety before a single runner was signed up. “Trail marathon is a niche within the marathon community, because not everybody runs trail,” says co-founder Devrang Agarwal. “There is a higher level
of endurance required.” Talks are on with Gujarat Tourism to draw runners from marathon chapters in Ahmedabad and other Gujarat cities.

Arched forms and reflecting water create a calm arrival experience at Aaramgah Resort & Spa.

Stone, sand-toned walls and water echo the colours and textures of the surrounding landscape.
The yoga day and the marathon carry a single argument: that Jawai holds more than its wild cats. “When you search for Jawai, you just see leopards,” Agarwal says. “We want to show people there is a lot more.” He and his younger brother Tanay, hoteliers from Mount Abu, sited Aaramgah well away from leopard territory, the dam and the railway line, on former lemon-tree farmland ringed by a ten-foot boundary. What they call the boulder town sits on the Aravalli range, older and steadier than the Himalayas, and shelters crocodiles, sloth bears, foxes, nilgai and clouds of migratory birds. Because most of the terrain is privately held, the safari here runs unregulated, along hill drives and improvised paths instead of one fixed circuit.
The property leans the other way from its adventure programming, toward stillness. “Aaramgah is the easiest way to do nothing,” Agarwal says, pointing to washrooms fitted with brass lotas and bathing stools of a grandparent’s house, and rooms finished in age-old terrazzo and gutai, a lime technique that keeps interiors cool. In winter, when the region has no industry and the resort’s lights face downward to spare the sky, the stars come out in full.
Culture completes the picture. Rabari, the shepherd community whose silver jewellery has drifted into big-city fashion, sing at the resort each weekend, and guests can be taken, on request, into a Rabari home to watch a meal cooked and a herd moved. It is, Agarwal says, an experience meant to be memorable rather than merely rough. For now, the leopard still draws the first glance. Jawai is making the case that it need not be the last. In time, the region hopes to be known as much for wellness, yoga amidst the ancient rocks, and its wildlife trail marathon, as for its enduring symbol.

Aaramgah Resort & Spa offers a quieter counterpoint to the region's wildlife experiences.

The wildlife trail marathon is part of the region's expanding adventure offering.








































