Tokyo’s Spirit Finds a Home in Delhi
Great ambience, innovative cocktails, and premium food—Oju, co-founded by filmmaker, chat show host, and fashionista Karan Johar—raises the bar for Japanese cuisine in India.
By Suman Tarafdar
Have you yearned for a Tokyo-style bar crawl
in India? Been spoilt by the unprecedented quality of premium Japanese cuisine in Delhi and the NCR lately? The bar has been raised again. With its innovative menu and cocktail-forward philosophy, the newly opened Oju brings that dream closer.
Named after the charming castle town of Ozu on Shikoku, Oju perfectly captures the essence of Japan. It helps that Oju is an extension of Neuma, part of Truepalate Hospitality, founded by Ankit Tayal, Anshul Goel, Vartik Tihara, and filmmaker Karan Johar.
Designed by Aayushi Malik, the interiors transport you straight to Ginza—Tokyo’s elegant district of boutiques, restaurants, and coffeehouses. The stylish space features a combination of natural stone, dark wood, and Kyoto-inspired wallpaper. Each table features a travertine table lamp, while the floor is interspersed with strategically placed floor lamps, imbuing it with a warm hue. The seating spaces in this 120-cover restaurant are uneven—a central open space surrounded by alcoves that lend themselves perfectly to more intimate cosy corners. Choose between high tables, alfresco seating, intimate sofas, small chairs, and, of course, a grand bar.
Oju, co-founded by filmmaker Karan Johar, brings a slice of Japan to India.
Cocktails+
But of course, we’re here for the cocktails—and the grub. At the bar, inspirations extend beyond Japan. Conceptualised with Countertop, India’s leading cocktail collective led by Pankaj Balachandran, and executed by Head Mixologist Siya Negi, the menu divides neatly between highballs and signatures.
If the names are novel, the menu is a visual delight—each drink is accompanied by images, ingredients, and tasting notes. The Saketini (yep, the cuteness is deliberate) lists sake, vodka, gari brine, rice water, dry vermouth, Aperol, and malic acid—its notes described as “clean, light, floral.”
I tried the Strawberries and Cream—a house-favourite highball of strawberries, vodka, Lillet rosé, malic acid, and cream soda. Its notes—lush, soft, lingering—were as described.
There are multiple enticing choices to explore—Call Me Complex, Yuzu and Koshu, Beet and Miso, Quinoa—the last perhaps a subtle hint to imbibe healthily. Spread your tasting over multiple visits; there’s too much to appreciate in one evening. Other spirits abound, of course—whiskies (blended, Irish, American), liqueurs, beer, pisco, brandy, and an extensive wine list. Sake and soju hold pride of place—premium but worth exploring, especially for Japan returnees nostalgic for Memento Mori, Apéro, or The Grey Room.
Black Miso Cod, with Yuzu Mizo Sauce, one of the more popular dishes at Oju.
Grilled Octopus with Truffle Onion Lime Wafu and Smoked Aubergine Salsa.
Plates—big and small
The food magically complements the beverages.. Led by Chef Mahmoud Mohamed Awadalla Gaber (Moh) and Chef Nitin Bhardwaj, both with impressive credentials (think Nobu, Michelin, World Sushi Cup), the menu is built on authenticity. Many ingredients come directly from Japan, while
Oju makes its own ferments, pickles, and broths in-house—some simmering for days—to ensure quality.
How does Oju stand apart in an already crowded scene? “Authentic with a twist,” says Chef Vinam Bhasin, who’s holding fort this evening. “Japanese cuisine relies heavily on miso and soy. We use two to three types of miso and four to five kinds of soy,” he explains. Originally from Chandigarh, by way of Canada, Bhasin notes that everything—from sauces and shiso leaves to the robata grills—comes from Japan.
A visit to Oju, he insists, is an experience. “We didn’t go for dishes India already knows. So, no ramen here. While sushi, sashimi, and tempura are on the menu, guests can explore Japan’s lesser-known comfort dishes such as donabe bowls, which are humble one-pot meals popular across Japan.”
There are four donabe options; the Mushroom Donabe with Seaweed Butter is highly recommended. Noodle lovers can choose between udon and yakisoba. The Korean-influenced gochujang, which contextualises as the Japanese ‘garam masala’, appears in dishes like Baby Chicken with Ume Gochujang Butter and Crispy Baby Potatoes with Spicy Gochujang Ume Butter—a vegetarian favourite and one of Oju’s aforementioned clever tweaks.
Miso soup fans get three variants. The Spinach with Gomadare Sauce deserves encores. There’s the familiar Tuna Tataki with Lime Wafu, or the less familiar options like the Octopus Carpaccio with Sweet Chili Spicy Kombu Sauce or Hamachi with Ponzu Sauce, a chef’s recommendation. The gyoza, mantou, and tempura selections are wide-ranging. Seafood fans can try the strikingly plated Seafood Gyozas with Ponzu Butter Sauce, each with a distinct filling.
Signature mains include the Black Miso Cod and Grilled Salmon Robatayaki, both sublime. The Robatayaki section also showcases dishes like Hokkaido Scallop with Lime Soy Butter and Shiso, Octopus Kushi with Yuzu Red Kosho Vinaigrette and Crispy Onion. Or treat yourself with Otoro Kushi—a luxurious cut of seared, fatty bluefin tuna belly, seared and topped with Chili Kosho Vinaigrette and Bonito Flakes.
Vegetarians and vegans are well catered for. The yasai tempura made from vegetables may not be common in Kyoto’s eateries, but in India, they are. A notable example is the Ume Mayo, made from Japanese tangy plums that impart a uniquely tart flavour to a dish. Tensuyu, made from dashi, mirin, and soy sauce, is another popular soy sauce.
Stylishly lit interiors combine natural stone, dark wood and Kyoto-inspired wallpaper.
Sweet endings
Informed patrons of the cuisine know better than to skip dessert. From the land of the rising sun and delectable food, Oju offers a mochi selection—go for the coconut. Harder choices come when faced with the Matcha Molten Cake, the Raspberry Yuzu Cheesecake, or the Coconut Chawanmushi. The right selection? All of the above. It also offers Omakase, available with a day’s prior booking.
A suggestion—go with an open mind. You’ll discover flavours both familiar and new, some you’ll likely want recipes for. As expected, the second Oju has already opened in Mumbai, the city KJo calls home.
